Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
